It was in my plans to make another trip down to see my extended family in Puerto Vallarta, and Guadalajara. With a bit of planning and budgeting, I decided that May was as good a month to make the drive and spend a couple of weeks in Mexico. I also wanted to do some exploration of Mexico's Western Sierra Madre, and specially la Sierra Huichol as the part of the sierra where one of Mexico's most colorful indigenous people still live.
There is much media attention about the crime waves going on in Mexico. I believe that much of the media is sensationalized, and with a bit of precaution, and common sense, Mexico still offers both local and international travelers a great experience and fun memories. I made the drive down to Guadalajara in 2 days, that is roughly 1300 miles, and a lot of gas refuel-ling. So needless to say the days were long, and I didn't stop to do any sight seeings anywhere, but stopped only to refuel, have some food, and to get some sleep in a comfortable hotel.
As far as check points were concerned, there were plenty. But all my documents were in order, including the vehicle importation permit, which was requested during a couple of the check points on the way down. Besides that, the check points were a non issue, on the way down and on the return trip. It is helpful to be respectful and friendly to the authorities and be open to small chat if requested. Besides the usual questions of our destination and purpose of the trip, I had to answer a few questions regarding my vehicle, which tends to get a fair share of attention.
We stayed in Guadalajara 3 days, given us just enough time to spend some time with family. One day was spent doing some shopping in Tonala, which is a great hand crafts and arts market. We also went to the busy market San Juan De Dios, which also offers the shopper a variety of goods ranging from traditional garments, to fruits and vegetable stands. That area is bustling with people as the colonial is a densely populated and filled with neighborhood restaurants and stores.
Tonala Fruit Stand
That same night I was invited by my cousin Livier, her husband Roberto and niece Nayeli to the hip Chapultepec district for a night out in the town and we went Casa Bariachi, a lively place that played good Mariachi music and served good traditional Mexican food, along with a complete list of tequila, and beer selection.
Casa Bariachi in Action
While in Guadalajara we also took a short drive to Laguna de Chapala and drove through the lake's quaint neighborhoods like Ajijic. I really enjoyed driving trough the area, and I wish I could have stayed a couple days there just being a tourist and enjoying the lake views and walking the neighborhoods' cobble stone streets filled with old colonial homes.
Laguna de Chapala
Soon it was time to move on to visit my cousin Rosita's cattle ranch near El Llano Grande, Jalisco. To get it would require we drive through Talpa, a town mostly known for its Virgen de Talpa, and its temple. Talpa gets a large amount of visitors who make the pilgrimage trail to give thanks to the Virgen de Talpa who is known for her miracles. Talpa is located about 3,900 feet above sea level, on the Sierra Madre.
Talpa De Allende, Jalisco
The dirt road can be scenic, specially near the top of the sierra as it is a series of switchbacks to get to the lower elevations.
There are also a couple of water crossings that can be a real challenge during the rainy season. Last year at the water crossing where the bridge is being built, a gentleman lost his life when he attempted to cross the river in his truck during a recent storm. To his bad luck, he got caught in the middle of the water crossing by a surging river, dragging his brand new truck about 100 yards, and tumbling it, along with him inside it. Sadly, his lifeless body was found many more yards down river hours later.
water crossing
We used El Llano Grande as a resting place, as we were busy out and about driving around visiting near by villages like El Cimarron, were we spent a bit of time by the river. The next day we headed off to the cousin's ranch a couple of miles south of town to spend the day.
El Rancho de Rosita
I managed to play cowboy for a day, as I was offered a well trained horse to ride, which called for me wearing some boots, along with the spurs, something no self respecting vaquero would ride a horse without. Some of us at the ranch went down to the river and dipped in the pools. After wards we ate some great food consisting of beef stew and chicken soup comprised of a freshly killed gallina (chicken) from the ranch stock, along with fresh grown vegetables. Soon after I got on my horse and went up in the hills exploring with one of my young nephews, who happened to be a much better cowboy, as at the ripe age of 13, he is a master with the rope and skilled at riding horses.
Anyways, I got the opportunity to brush my horse back riding skills and assisted in herding some of the cattle roaming on the ranch property up in the hills and brought them back down to the lower level. Again, that was a fun day for all of us, especially for me.
I only wish the river would have had more water flowing, as it would have given me yet another opportunity to test my water crossing skills on my Land Cruiser. During the rainy season, that river can be impassable as it becomes too strong and can drag cars, and horses along with its riders down river.
Early morning the day after, we loaded up the SUV and once again got on the road towards Puerto Vallarta via Tomatlan. From Llano Grande, it is about a 35 mile drive on a washboard road to reach Tomatlan.
On the Way to Tomatlan, Jalisco
However, due to the poor stage that the road is in the drive is very slow going. Furthermore, washboard roads can be brutal on a car, and its passengers. One is forced to adapt to the road conditions and in this case, we could only go slow in most cases. At one point, even the Hi-Lift jack came loose from its jack mount, nearly braking the side window. Luckily I managed to stop the vehicle immediately after I saw the jack hit the window and then rest on it. That was a close call. I have to hand it to the engineers for making those windows so sturdy against impact, those Hi-Lift jacks are not light. After making our way past Tomatlan, we took a detour at Cruz De Loreto a few miles north of Tomatlan. My goal was to visit a local beach north from Cruz De Loreto. I had previously seen some video footage on YouTube and had read a bit about the natural beauty and pristine location of Punta Peñitas. Once we got there I was not disappointed. The beach was exactly as I had imagined it to be. Pristine and devoid of any infrastructure or services within its vicinity. You have to plan ahead and buy provisions and food at Cruz de Loreto. There are no services at Punta Peñitas, but a few ramadas to take shelter from the sun. Unfortunately the surf was small at 2-3 foot. But I still managed to paddle out for a solo surf session and catch a few waves around the middle of the beach. I can see how there could be some potential for catching some good surf on a day where there is a South or North Swell running. I specially enjoyed how clean and clear the water was, as you could easily see the bottom, along with schools of very small fish colonies swimming around you. My mom, uncle Luis and cousin Ester also enjoyed themselves trolling the beach and getting in its cool water. It was a win. I loved the beach for its remoteness, scenic qualities and surf potential.
Some Pics of Punta Peñitas
About an hour and half after we got back on the main road at Cruz de Loreto, we reached Puerto Vallarta. Again I stayed in town a little over a week, spending time with more family and attending some family parties and get together. I also took the opportunity to do some maintenance on my truck thanks to my cousin Pin, who works along with my uncle runs an auto repair shop in town. It was during this time that I noticed a small radiator leak coming from the top. After careful consideration and sound advice, I decided to use some radiator stop leak and see if that could be a temporary solution to the leaky radiator problem. It turned out as expected, and didn't see any more water leaks during the rest of the days. Some of the activities I did while in Puerto Vallarta was drive up the coast and visit San Francisco, Nayarit, where I invited one of my aunts, cousin Isabel, and my mother and had a good lunch at one of the restaurants on the beach. The food was as expected, fresh and delicious.
Seeing how there was a south swell in the 6-8 foot range, I had to paddle out for a surf session after lunch. The surf was consistent on the sets, but as typical of the place, the waves can close out so you had to be patient and choosy and wait for the set waves with the better shape. I managed to snag a couple and worked the carvable outside sections into the inside where it was either giving you an opportunity to pull in for a close out barrel, or float the section and hope for the best.
After wards I stopped by my little shack 4 blocks up the beach, and visited with some relatives I have in San Pancho. Later on at night I went out with Judith and Isabel for a walk down the malecon and ended up at La Bodegita Del Medio, a fun Cuban restaurant and bar that has live Salsa and tropical music. It was a great time and a classic day. The kind of days you look forward to experiencing during your travels. We had some much fun at that place that we went back another time.
After getting the preventative maintenance on my vehicle out of the way, I was ready to look into the trip to the Sierra De Los Huicholes. I will write about it on a separate blog, as it warrants its own focus.
Other fun stuff I did while in Puerto Vallarta was going up some dirt roads on my Cousin Pin's boogie. It was a blast going up the Sierra Madre's switchbacks on an VW powered open top boogie.
Another time I got the opportunity to try my horse back riding skills again and make a horse dance, which I am happy to say I made it dance. It was something I always wanted to try, and am glad for the gentleman who loaned me his well trained horse during the course of a song. This happened on the night some of us went out to celebrate cousin Isabel's birthday at a hip local campestre retaurant and bar in town. I also took another family trip to Mascota, Jalisco, where we had a really nice country style lunch at a restaurant at the Village of La Estancia. This is become some sort of tradition for the uncle and aunt, whom make it a point to stop there for either breakfast or lunch on the way to Mascosta whenever they decide to get away from PV.
I didn't want to come back so soon. But the reality was that I had some things to take care of at home. I got on the road on a Tuesday morning and returned traveling the same autopistas (toll highways) we had traveled down. We rested in Navojoa Sonora for the night and were back on the road early the next day, covering some 700 miles on the second day to make it back home in 2 days. Again, had no issues on the road, at the various check points. I even got lucky and didn't have to go through the dreaded secondary inspection when crossing the border into the United States, something I somehow expect whenever you tell the border patrol officer that you traveled pretty far south like Puerto Vallarta. Maybe it had something to do with the relatively young and cute female border patrol agent who asked me the usual questions, was professional yet had a hint of friendliness.
Here is a link for more pics.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v228/bohemianjsr/60%20Puerto%20Vallarta_Talpa_San%20Pancho%20May/?albumview=slideshow
